»Music is a language, a communication tool. It adds another layer to what you see.«

»Music is a language, a communication tool. It adds another layer to what you see.«

Michel Gaubert has been shaping the sound of international fashion for over 30 years. As a music supervisor, he has set the tone for runway shows and nearly every major fashion house including Chanel, Dior, Valentino, and Loewe - always with instinct for sound‘s capacity to create atmosphere and spark emotions. In conversation with curators Jochen Eisenbrand and Katharina Krawczyk, the former DJ recalls standout moments, from a music-filled night in Cuba to politically powerful shows.

Who introduced music to fashion shows?

I would say Courrèges, because his wife was a choreographer. It certainly was in this era. There was this amazing fashion programme on French TV Dim Dam Dom. I was raised on that. It was my Sunday “Wow” programme. Many artists were involved. They would have Romy Schneider or Catherine Deneuve presenting the couture collections, all very nicely filmed. Some of the music was really good, too. Always very interesting to watch.

What are the most important developments in the world of fashion shows?

The biggest improvement – whether good or not – is that fashion shows are instantly visible everywhere. If Prada shows on Sunday at noon, by 1 pm the whole world knows about it. Everything gets analysed like an autopsy. It’s exciting but also takes away the magic. By the time the clothes hit the stores, you’re already tired of them. It’s like Uber Eats – you don’t wait, you just order what you want.

You created a silent show for Moncler. What was that like?

We did that last year, outdoors. We couldn’t play loud music due to animals and neighbours. So, we went for a silent disco. Everyone wore headphones, and the models walked in silence. The music was inspired by classic movies. The final track was “Inside the Silence”.

What does music add to fashion?

It gives the show another layer. Music is a language, a way to communicate emotions. It creates atmosphere, like in a film. It’s not just about clothes. Designers often start with a track. Like Oliver Theyskens at Nina Ricci, who said: “This show is all about “Pornography” by The Cure.” So, we built everything around that. That’s what I do – shape sound into something that fits the show.

Which fashion shows do you remember most vividly?

Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein show in 2018 – fall/winter season in New York. The set looked like a barn, covered in popcorn, with Warhol prints on the walls. The music was Lynchian. Then the 2016 Chanel Cruise Show in Cuba – all live music. Working with Cuban musicians was amazing. Everyone danced on the runway at the end. And recently, the show for Willy Chavarria in Paris – it was politically powerful. We played the sermon by Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde, who spoke out against Trump. That was strong.

How has technology changed your job – and what stays the same?

I started with vinyl, then cassettes, reel-to-reel, MiniDiscs, CDs, and now USBs. It’s easier now, but what really matters is the concept. The tools change – the intuition doesn’t. And yes, I archive everything – five full computers. Otherwise, the music is lost, especially online where original tracks get replaced due to rights. But music is part of the experience.